Cracking Kamado Reinforcement Project

[Syzygies]

Hi. My K7 lower body is riddled with cracks; after making a new gasket, 1/5th of the smoke that escapes is seeping through these cracks.

I managed to ask about this on the K forum without getting banned or deleted, but aside from some incorrect information from RichardJ (we've all seen wire in the K body, e.g. when I drilled the guru port, and he asserts M61/2/3 would hold my pieces together), no users responded.

I'm afraid that there isn't enough chicken wire in my K to hold the pieces together as cracking progresses, and I'd like to reinforce the outside, extending by half an inch with a combination of wire mesh and a cement-like material.

The wire mesh I have in mind comes in flexible rolls from Home Depot, a tight diamond weave I've used to keep squirrels out of my garage. Think paper mache here, only different materials.

I'm undecided on the cement-like material. After my tiles fell off I've been texturing my kamado with mortar and mortar admix, dyed black. I could continue with this, or refractory cement such as Heat Stop II, or buy something else. I'm concerned about what refractory cement suppliers call the "green" strength of such cement, as on the outside it will see some heat but it won't get fired to curing temperatures. On the other hand, all it really has to do is "hang in there", filling in my generous swaddling with wire mesh. I'll be blocking the cracks from the inside, to prevent further smoke escape.

Does anyone know anything about this?

[curly]

Has RJ refused to replace it? This would be a good story to hear...please share. The tiles have fallen off and there are structural cracks through the body, and that doesn't merit a replacement.

[The Spanker]

Waaaay outside my realm of expertise, but could you wrap it in fiberglass? Or, in case the temps are too extreme for fiberglass, muffler repair tape?

Edit: Instead of your proposed hardware cloth construct, I mean.

[CharlieBrown]

I'm curious how the new layer will adhere to the old exterior. All I can imagine is the new shell separating from the body, cracking, and falling off.

Why not just seal the inside with patching-material-of-your-choice and keep up the outside with minor cosmetic grout? I think the chicken-wire WILL hold it together for the long haul. Do you see something that makes you think the whole thing is in danger of falling apart?

[curly]

Well, I didn't want to divulge this because I may be giving up my source. I have a friend in Vegas that is really in the inner circle, but forget you heard that because I will be in big trouble if this ever gets back to RJ.

But anyways, here's the scoop. I hear there is an M64 that is almost done with testing. Yep, it's in a spray can, you simply spray it on the inside or outside of the K and it is absolutley guarenteed to never leak again.

Believe it or not, this stuff was actually used on the last space shuttle mission. Yep, you heard it right, Kamado is literally working with NASA on this magic goo. But the really interesting part is that RJ has totally left this one with his daughters, he said they have to get more involved at some point so this is it. They have both been studying rocket science in college so it's right up their alley. In fact one of them (the pretty one) may even go up on the next mission. She's so sold on M64 that she has agreed to be sprayed with the stuff and strapped to the outside of the shuttle, both the lauch and re-entry with a camera trained on her constantly.

It's so good that's it's probably never gonna be available to the public. Supposedly you can shape chickenwire like a K, put plastic wrap over the shape and spray the M64 on it and within minutes you can reach temps in excess of 1 million degrees.

[Syzygies]

Hey. Thanks for the laughs.

Muffler repair tape? Now, that is friggin' brilliant. Perhaps not as the ideal solution with time in advance, but for everyone's K emergency kit. I love appropriation; a hardware store is church for the imagination.

Yep, I'm very worried about adhesion between the layers. Of course, my casual texturing approach (which people have had fun with here) leaves plenty for new mortar to grab onto. But my theory is that if I design a strong enough new layer, doesn't really matter if all it is is a jar holding the pieces of the old K, till I can again patch cracks from the inside.

Honestly, would you pay shipping for a replacement K (if you believe that could possibly happen?), or save your money for a KK? Wife gave permission for the KK, if it comes to that. Meanwhile, keeping this one up saves work over starting over watching a new K fall apart.

Of course, if Richard did deliver a new K to my doorstep, I'd take it in and give this one to my sister, and let you all know. I haven't asked; David and Kim put in a request for me years ago, but I went ahead and repaired instead. Didn't want the down time.

Nice that I found a forum where I can get user responses!

[Nemesis]

Curly, you had me there for a sentence or two!

As for the wire mesh cocoon project, how about just a thick coating of rhino lining on the outside and skip the wire altogether. The Rhino Lining page says that it is good from -40 to over 190* F. They also say it has a tensile strength of 1750psi. With that kind of holding power, flexibility, plus it is moisture proof and impervious to everything, it sounds perfect.

Comes in colors too

http://www.rhinolinings.com/products/product_faq

You may recall seeing the short lived discovery channel show "smash lab" where they used it to try and make a building blast proof. Their methods were questionable, but seeing it used to coat a building gave me definite ideas for a waterproof and crack proof Kamado.

Now, any ideas on rebuilding a firebox? Mine is in 4 pieces, and I was going to try the wire mesh and high temp mortar plan to rebuild it, but I am not optimistic.

[Syzygies]

The Rhino lining looks very interesting. I've measured my Kamado with one of those laser thermometers, the outside doesn't get past 190 F in my use patterns. However, if the Rhino material insulates itself, the inner boundary of the Rhino material could perhaps get to 190 F. On the other hand, I doubt 190 F is as sharp a cutoff as ice melting, simply a recommendation to stay below to avoid deterioration.

My firebox looks ready to go, also. I'm thinking with the right refractory glue, one simply fits the pieces together. Here's a great source of many products:

http://www.refwest.com/

I wonder whether there are food safety issues with their more exotic e.g. alumina products, same idea as not using galvanized steel as a heat deflector.

[curly]

[CrookedRichard]

[Syzygies]

http://www.kamado.com/FAQ.htm#15

[CrookedRichard]

[Gerard]

[Syzygies]

[GRB]

Dave...

Why don't you come to PHX and pick up the base to my black textured #7. The lid is shot, but the base may work for you. Between the two of us we can make one cooker.

GRB